A Heart Runs Through It

The morning fog was lying on the canal like a soft, low ceiling, creating a tactile tunnel that we were steering through. Both banks were crowded with trees and carpeted with bright grass; we were steaming north aboard the 24 meter barge Festina Tarde. We were in the hands of Jim and Mary Neil, their gracious hospitality, friendly demeanor, and enthusiasm for the barge life was an infectious and graceful feeling.

Mary and I had taken the train 3 hours south of Paris to visit a fellow retired fireman and his wife (also a Jim & Mary) who are spending 7 months a year living aboard their barge. It is home ported in Roanne and spends about 5 months traveling through the canals of Europe. This is travel at a gentlemanly pace, as the barge averages 6 to 8 Kilometer per hour. It is 24 meters long and has all the luxuries and amenities you will find at home.

The Neil’s had piped us aboard the previous afternoon. After a stunning lunch that lurched into the late afternoon when we roused ourselves for some serious Petanque. Petanque is French boules or a bowls game, like its cousin Bocce Ball it involves throwing small, heavy balls. It is best played on long, sun dappled afternoons, where men on the dark side of 60 can compete, converse, and debate decisions involving fractions of an inch with victory and defeat hanging in the friendly balance.

This was the weekly tournament of the Port of Roanne barge owners. Jim Neil was the coach of the defending championship team. The trophy had sat prominently in the wheelhouse of the Festina Tarde the previous seven days. This was the Americans against the Europeans, but unlike the Ryder Cup the good guys would prevail. Your humble correspondent was pressed into service because of my vast Petanque experience; I had once seen a match in Luxembourg Garden.

Next to our titanic struggle the wives were locked in their own fierce battle. English is the default language setting in the barge world. It was nice to talk to someone else other than your mate. That sentiment was roundly seconded by the Baroness.

After carrying Jim off the victorious pitch we all went to the barge of Peter and Pauline for an introduction to Indian cuisine and an evening of excellent conversation with them, the Neil’s, and a San Diego couple, Al and Joan. A fabulous evening; with more dead soldiers than banquet night at Simpson’s.