A Paris Journal

If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris.... then wherever you go for the rest of your life, it stays with you, like a moveable feast. Ernest Hemingway

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Location: Sonoma, California, United States

I am constantly a work in progress.

Tuesday, October 24, 2006




Mass At The Madeleine

Sunday morning found us taking in a mass at the Madeleine. Ever since we arrived we have planned to take in the 11:00 “Solemn Mass” with full choir and large organ. Now our time here is dwindling.

The Madeleine is a neoclassical pile of Greco-Roman architecture that almost reminds one of a Southern courthouse. Outside, the soup kitchen customers were drinking half quarts of ale and discussing the 9ers no doubt.

Inside, the church is a beautiful example of gilt and marble done in a Romanesque style. As we walked down the main aisle the organ was swelling behind us and the choir was singing in front of us with a lead soprano vocalist whose voice filled the entire church to its dome. It was an unforgettable moment.

We waited for the mass to begin by watching the sopranos’ graceful and fluid hand movements that encouraged the reluctant congregation to sing. Meanwhile the young alter boy was constantly fidgeting.

There were 7 priests on the alter and they were all eligible to tap their Deferred Compensation. I glanced around the massive church at the small and ageing turnout. Europe’s’ low birth rate was contributing to a diminishing demographic.

At the end of mass the priests filed out the main aisle, the organ was playing loud dissonant, crashing chords that reminded one of Judgment Day. “Hark sinner thy time is neigh”. Do you think they were talking to me?




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